The (Semi) Naked Truth

It’s a truism that a natural look can take more time and products to achieve than an obviously painted face. Nevertheless, it’s hard to resist the “no-makeup” makeup trending so strongly, seen at the international shows for spring-summer, and at a slew of the recent autumn-winter shows. RIP the smoky eye.

But, asks Lisa Armstrong of the Daily Telegraph, can a natural look be achieved in under 15 minutes and with fewer than six products?

PAT MCGRATH
Supremo behind many classic catwalk looks, including the "natural" coup de grace at Stella McCartney.

“Add a drop of moisturiser to a sheer foundation followed by concealer. I love Michelle Roques-O’Neil’s Therapie Restore Aura Spray, an infusion of essential oils that instantly restores energy. (Not available in New Zealand but try M.A.C Studio Fix spray).

“Applying foundation and concealer with fingertips speeds up the process by warming up the makeup right into the skin. Use an old toothbrush to brush brows from left to right to reveal gaps that may be hiding.

“Softly fill in any holes with an eyebrow pencil (McGrath recommends Max Factor Eyebrow Pencil). Try going a shade lighter than your brows for a more subtle look. Sweep a taupe-coloured eye-shadow (try Max Factor’s Wild Shadow Pot in Pale Pebble) under the bottom lashes and over the eyelids, up to the crease. Blend with a fluffy eyeshadow brush.

“Highlight cheekbones, cupid’s bow, and bridge of the nose for a more luminous effect. Finally, add lip balm.”

Time: 8 minutes
Products used (discounting moisturiser): 5
Number of brushes: 2

MARY GREENWELL
Makeup queen who makes actor Cate Blanchett look dewy

“The most important thing about ‘NMUMU’ [no makeup makeup] is getting perfect skin.

“The right moisturiser, foundation and concealer make skin look plumped up and gorgeous. As far as NMUMU eyes, you want a sheer, pale powder that gives a slight shimmer to the eye.

“It’s about building. On eyelids, try a very pale concealer with Vaseline over the top. For more impact, try a shimmer powder over concealer. Use brown mascara, regardless of your eye colour. The darker you are, the darker brown you can use. It’s less obvious than black, but will open up the eye. A really good brow, properly plucked, defined and shaped is already a ‘look’ in itself. If you have messy brows, you will never look neat and tidy.

“Tom Ford has a great new under-eye concealer (not available in New Zealand, but try a similar creamy skin-matched formula) and then something like YSL Touche Eclat on top. Go one shade lighter than the rest of your skin so it will lift the area. Above all, spend time on skincare. If your skin’s good you’re most of the way there.”

Time: 10 minutes
Products: 7
Brushes: optional

LINDA CANTELLO
International makeup artist, Armani Beauty

“A good base is always the most important step for any makeup and less can be more. Use a primer, then add a small amount of concealer under your eyes, around the nose, in the T-zone and any area where you need to cover imperfections.

Dab with your fingers and then you can see where else you need to apply base — you won’t require as much as you think. Start sparingly. You can always weight it up. If you need slightly more coverage, use a small brush and stipple on your foundation. Light layers last longer and allow your skin to shine through.

“If you only do one other thing after foundation, add a few layers of black mascara. If you have more to spare, find a multi-purpose, long-wear product that you can use as an eye shadow and as an eye-liner or mixed with water for a light wash, such as Armani Eye and Brow Maestro (not available in New Zealand, but other brands do long-wear cream colour eye bases). Again, layering small amounts of lightweight product helps keep the look natural.”

Time: 10 minutes
Products: 5
Brushes: 2

KAI VINSON
Kai Vinson is Bobbi Brown's main man in Asia and travels back to the United States regularly to apply his artistry skills.

“This season is still all about skin and brows. You are also seeing a soft fresh smokey eye. Choose a skin-tone correct foundation. I love Bobbi’s Foundation Stick layered over moisturiser with a brush. Correct and conceal to hide any darkness under the eyes. For filling brows I’m obsessed with natural-looking colour and using new Perfectly Defined Long Wear Brow Pencils (not in New Zealand until May). Soften and shape your brow with a final comb through.

“For eyes use a long-wear cream shadow stick. These come in many colours and blend seamlessly with fingers or a touch-up brush, for a perfect no mess/no fallout smokey eye. Try smokey grey, smokey brown and even soft purple. A little fun sparkle lifts a nude or mostly neutral look. Finish with lots of mascara.

“Keep the rest of the makeup simple. Apply your favourite gloss or a nice nude lip. Nougat is my go-to nude gloss shade, it looks great on everyone.

For cheeks, choose something that adds sheer cheek colour and a bit of glow.”

Time: 15 minutes
Products used (discounting skincare): 8
Number of brushes: 2