Show Report: Harman Grubisa at NZFW 2015

By Dan Ahwa
Viva
Backstage at Harman Grubisa. Picture / Guy Coombes.

Who: Harman Grubisa

What: It's the first time designers Madeleine Harman and Jessica Grubisa have shown at fashion week, this being only their fourth season. Having opened up their flagship boutique on Jervois Rd in June, the duo have already created a solid foundation with a modern design aesthetic that focuses on luxurious clean cut wardrobe pieces for women on the move.

Entitled Dakota, the collection references The Dakota, an iconic apartment block on the Upper Westside of Manhattan that has been the home to some legendary women such as Lauren Bacall and Roberta Flack. The message of women who hold their own ground was clear from the first look to the final exit.

Mood: Upbeat and energetic. The resounding applause from the crowd after the show highlighted the pair's popularity and strong support from family and friends. 3rd Degree reporter Paula Penfold, who has been championing the brand, was there, along with photographer Russ Flatt who has photographed the brand's imagery and look books since its inception in 2014.

We liked: Seeing sexy power dressing done right - a promising direction from such a young label.

Sharp tailoring and well cut pants, a tailored puffa jacket in navy and the Mongolian sheepskin fur trim, pale green biker jacket (actually all the fur looks were standouts). Accessories included linear gold earrings and the label’s own line of pointy patent ankle boots.

Extra points for slick production, as models walked out in quick succession, with no time to spare.

Music: Songs to mince to. There was a late-80s-early-90s Benson & Hedges feel to the show (in a great way) with a toe tapping soundtrack that opened with Gwen Guthrie's sassy 'Ain't Got Nothin' Goin' on But the Rent' perfectly setting the tone for the show.

Beauty: Make-up keyed by M.A.C cosmetics make-up artist Josie Wignall focused primarily on expensive looking skin, high shine and groomed brows. Hair was keyed by longtime collaborator and close friend of the label, Matt Benns from Stephen Marr salon, who focused on a soft side part that worked particularly well tucked into collars.

In a word: EMPOWERED.

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