Runway Report: Juliette Hogan, Stolen Girlfriends Club & Kathryn Wilson at NZ Fashion Week 2019
Familiar labels and fresh new faces took to the runway on day three of Fashion Week. The Viva team share their highlights
Collections at the Runway at Aotea Square
Favourite looks: Sarah: The first collection, Olli, made a strong statement with pops of bubble-gum pastels on garments made of pleats, ruffles galore and unique tailoring. #BoPeepChic.
Styling notes: Hats and headwear featured strongly across the four collection-show. Olli had white bo-peep hats and metallic sunhats and Rhemy was styled with tight-fitting black caps to match the edgy looks shown.
Best music: A moody Lana Del Ray set the mood for the Sophie Joy collection.
Favourite look: Annabel: The crowd favourite was Olli. Whimsical and fresh, I loved the pastel candy colours and romantic ruffle finishes. Hard to pick a favourite but the look with green ruched crop and summer's latest must-have trend - the bucket hat!
Beauty notes: Olli and Sophie Joy featured glossy, fresh and pared-back looks. Breaking it up with a fierce red lip and darker features were Rhemy and Fumoso.
— Sarah Downs, writer and Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant
Kathryn Wilson at the Runway at Aotea Square
Ambience: Sarah: There’s no doubt Kathryn Wilson brought the party. The designer's loyal fan base turned out in the front row and piled up the back in general admission. Champagne, pink on steroids, dancing, and plenty of shoe gazing.
Styling Notes: The show took its Sex and The City theme all the way. Models were dressed in Carrie Bradshaw-inspired off the shoulder dresses with big shoulder ruffles – iconic. We want a pair of new shoes and a trip to New York, please.
Music: The show featured non-stop jams including crowd-pleasers Mariah Carey’s Fantasy (the best) and Jump by The Pointer Sisters to name a few.
Beauty Notes: Janetta: Carrie gets wiggy with extra-long crimped curls, thanks to long-time Kathryn collaborator Danny Pato of D&M Hair Design. He especially dyed hair for several models with obvious dark roots and lighter ends to shuttle SJP forward a few decades. Lochie Stonehouse, director of artistry for Lancome picked up on her younger years, with a fresh-faced flush and pink lips complete with a little lip liner in his beauty look.
“Her thing was never makeup, it was clothing,” he said backstage. But knowing skincare would have been an obsession for a Carrie of today, he achieved luminosity by layering Lancôme Genifique serum under her light base and finishing with Make It Pop blush.
Favourite Shoe: Sarah: I spied several boots I want. Standouts included the perfect pair of white platform boots and a slouched brown suede boot. There was also plenty of colour for strappy heels including pinks, and metallic silver.
— Sarah Downs, writer and Janetta Mackay, beauty editor
Graduate Show at the Runway at Aotea Square
Beauty notes: Annabel: Glossy and fresh. As the models walked for all nine young designers, the majority of the beauty was carried over with the exception of little pops of colour added on the eyes or lips intermittently.
Favourite look: Designer Douglas hailing from Otago Polytechnic had me captivated by the neon ruffles and diamante accessories. The oversized ruffle off-the-shoulder neon green shirt and hot pink tailored midi skirt took my breath away. The styling was also on point featuring neon socks and white cowboy boots.
— Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant
Juliette Hogan at the Juliette Hogan Workroom
Casting: Dan: Great cast of local talent including one of our favourite models Isabella Moore (Unique Models), along with Abbey Meeker (Clyne), Milla Brajovich (Clyne), Daria Bing (Unique Models), Zoe Stowers (Unique Models), Kizzie Amoore (62 Models), Cait Kneller (Clyne), Anna Lines (62 Models), Bernadette Anker (Unique models) and Juliette Hogan muse Kelvin Konoplyasova (Clyne).
Styling: There’s always a striking simplicity to how Juliette dresses herself and this is captured each season with a focus on languid beautiful separates made with equally beautiful fabrics.
A peach top and coat and simple oatmeal skirt worn by Milla was a key look, as was Daria’s long grey collarless coat. Minimalist but not dull, the presentation and collection was styled by Rachel Morton. White sneakers added a modern sporty look to the collection, which was inspired by the natural world and its bountiful source of inspiration for Juliette.
Music: Pianist Gabrielle Peake created an original piece inspired by Juliette’s collection, and performed this live at the presentation. With her Morningside workroom transformed into a native bush oasis for the models to stand around, matched with the piano arrangement, the music created a moment of peaceful respite.
One word review: Serenity.
Ambience: Johanna: As the crowds streamed into the suitably minimalist white-walled, concrete-floored space next to the Juliette Hogan workroom in Morningside, Gabrielle Peak’s gentle piano playing filled the air. This presentation of 10 looks from Juliette Hogan’s autumn/winter 2020 collection was inspired by New Zealand’s wild natural beauty. Models floated through a grove of native oi oi, carex frosted curls and sustainable moss arranged by Floral Stylist Co in the centre of the space, changing position every minute to offer viewers a better look at the thoughtful, classic garments in muted tones that Juliette Hogan is synonymous for.
Favourite look: A floor-length black floral jacquard dress with bow neck and balloon sleeves that floated romantically as model Kizzie Amoore walked. The look is angelic goth and that’s not a bad thing.
One word review: Pure.
Beauty notes: Ashleigh: According to Josie Wignall for M.A.C, millennial pink makeup isn’t going anywhere. The makeup artist played with the complexion-flattering shade over model’s eyelids and cheeks, offering a pretty, ultra-girly flush. The skin was prepped with M.A.C’s popular highlighting product Strobe Cream, which was applied generously over the face with a foundation brush to create luminosity and sheen. Lauren Gunn headed up the team from Colleen, who kept things simple with a soft, natural wave.
— Dan Ahwa, fashion & creative director; Johanna Thornton, deputy editor and Ashleigh Cometti, beauty writer
Stolen Girlfriends Club at Avondale Racecourse
Styling: Dan: Teaming up with styling duo Sebastian Hunt and Dylan Richards (who so far win the most polished show styling with Paris Georgia on Tuesday night), the show's key styling highlights included the use of surprisingly ladylike hard-cased purses and white western boots.
Ambience: Expert show production from Sarah Hough at the Avondale Racecourse. While the weather was grim, it added to the suspense of the show as barrel drums were set ablaze in the centre of the runway. Towards the end of the show a rain machine poured down on the models as they lined up facing the guests. Several minutes had passed before models were actually allowed to open up their umbrellas and cover themselves from catching their death in the freezing cold.
Music: An acapella version of The Doors' Light My Fire opened the show before seguing into a thumping soundtrack of techno, transforming Avondale Racecourse into an underground Berlin nightclub for a moment.
Casting: The quintessential brooding army of youth that the brand has built a community around. This was the strongest line up of male modes this week including Cedric Pasco (N Models), Harry Barclay (62 Models) and JFK (N Models).
Favourite look: Personal favourite was JFK’s open red pirate shirt and jeans combo; and for women, a cosy fringed knit top (which I’m sure model Becca Haeger would have appreciated) teamed with a pair of stonewashed jeans. Bonus points for all the cool trench coats.
Beauty notes: Ashleigh: Every year, I eagerly await the Stolen Girlfriends' show to see what edgy beauty look they’ve come up with. This year was no different, with M.A.C national artist Kiekie Stanners creating a Natural Born Killers-inspired beauty look – featuring kohl-rimmed eyes and punchy red lips in the ever-popular M.A.C shade Lady Danger, finished off with auburn lip liner. Hand-drawn scorpion tattoos were a fun touch. Hair was equally grungy, with a wet look style courtesy of Seb Hunt and Dylan James Richards for Lust Hair Care. Little did models know their hair was about to get a bit wetter…
— Dan Ahwa, fashion & creative director and Ashleigh Cometti, beauty writer
Favourite Things: Greatest Friend Pre-Loved Clothing Store Owner Angela Winter Means
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