Runway Report: New York Fashion Week
Highlights from Autumn/Winter 18's key shows
This year's mood at New York Fashion Week was one of glamour, exuberance, and in many cases, change as designers exhibited shifts from their previous modus operandi.
Victoria Beckham 'scaled-down' her show (it was still held in an Italian Renaissance-style mansion) and told British Vogue she wanted people to see the fabrics and details up close, hear the clothes moving and have a more personal, intimate experience with her luxuriously utilitarian collection. Alexander Wang’s show also had a different mood to his previous mega monster-truck-rally-cum-show of last year.
For Autumn/Winter 18, Wang went back to his roots and had models wearing his take on 80s-inspired power dressing through the old offices of the Conde Nast building in Times Square, the place where he got his start in fashion as an intern.
Tom Ford’s collection pounded down the catwalk to 80s bangers I’m So Excited and Jump (for My Love) by the Pointer Sisters. The designer also played with power dressing, but with a decidedly more literal take on 1980s style – think thick leather headbands, vividly coloured animal print and sequined leggings, contrasted with big-shouldered jackets.
Designers that did well with casting diverse, interesting models were zeitgeisty brand Eckhaus Latta, whose show included New Zealand’s Lili Sumner and Thistle Brown, Chromat and Christian Siriano, who had model Georgia Pratt, another Kiwi, walking in his evening gown-heavy show, plus actresses Selma Blair and Danielle Brooks from Orange is the New Black.
Tory Burch and Jason Wu bedecked their runways with flowers – Burch’s models floated through fields of carnations in her patterned pieces, and Jason Wu’s collection of jewel-tones, crinkled plissé and mesh was shown against rising walls of multi-coloured blooms.
Auckland-based brand Maaike appeared at New York Fashion Week for the first time, as part of their exclusive New York retailer Flying Solo’s group show, showing a colourful collaboration with well-known nail artist and designer Spifster.
Bottega Veneta offered a pleasing array of jewel-toned silks and velvets in a display of comfortable luxury, and the show dabbled in performance art as models arranged themselves for display on furniture from the brand’s upcoming homeware line after coming off the runway.
Never one to miss a spectacle, Philipp Plein managed to work faux fur, Playboy bunnies and a glittery snowboard into his collection. Models stomped through metres of fake snow, before a UFO delivered model Irina Shayk to the runway where she walked to the end arm-in-arm with a giant robot. Reality can be stranger than fiction.