Viva Highlights: Our Favourite Looks From Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2021

Capes, combat boots and the best of 'Blade Runner' — these were savvy clothes for uncertain times


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ACT N.1 LOOK 42

“Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin's AW21 collection was injected with so much theatricality, and amongst the veils and apron organza panels was this standout number: a tulle dress sewn into a form-fitting black shirt. One half looks entirely corporate, the other looks ready to be the most talked about debutante at a Regency-era ball. It’s Frankenstein-esque, in a thing-made-out-of-multiple-things kind of way, which is not to say that it doesn’t work, because it does.” — Julia Gessler.

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EMILIO PUCCI LOOK 17

“Pucci’s recent pastel push has been made all the sweeter in the brand’s latest collection, where the shoes become tights and the tights cover torsos. Where some looks layered a bodysuit with a lemony cashmere coat or a contrast-print midi skirt, others like this look cloaked prints in sheer organza. There’s beauty in the contrast: the tights, once vivid and punchy, feel less like a dare to be bold and more like a call to wear the diaphanous drapery of a Greek goddess.” — Julia.

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO LOOK 13

“Paul Andrew served sleek nods to ‘Blade Runner’ and brightness — a tangerine co-ord here, a fluorescent green coat dress there. What I loved most, though, were the collection's minty moments. They were made with the same high level of craftsmanship, and offered a place where glamour met wearability.” — Julia.

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VALENTINO LOOK 46

“Capes, nets, stomping boots, and exaggerated, pointed collars — these were elegant and punkish clothes to guide you through a changing world. My favourite ensemble was this black and white look; simplicity layered over something intricate, if not delicate. Then there was the shorter-than-short mini skirt — a radical move for a fashion house whose show-defining looks are so often floor-sweeping.” — Julia.

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ETRO Look 10

“I have a soft spot for Etro’s iconic paisely prints and family-run business (like many Italian heavyweights), and this sporty interpretation on the brand’s bohemian spirit is a fresh and wearable take on its roots. Great brown hues and a tucked in, belted waist make an outfit feel pulled together.” — Dan.

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MARNI LOOK 13

“Sportswear colliding with loungewear is truly the sign of the times — and while it’s taken me a few seasons to really come around to Francesco Risso’s slightly bonkers take on the brand, I’m really into this look — enveloping, warm and with loads of texture, but more importantly, it looks bloody cosy!” — Dan.

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO LOOK 14

“I like the technical aspects of the collection overall — this jacket is something I’d wear. It’s unsurprising everyone is thinking about futuristic elements and minimalism right now — it's a style of dress that feels appropriate for the times; less fuss-dressing, more garments that are quick to clean and dry, and are prepared for the uncertainty of tomorrow.” — Dan.

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SPORTMAX LOOK 20

“I’m a sucker for some tie-dye print and this elegant dress is perfectly styled with combat-style boots for a sense of grounding, making the dress much less precious. There’s something really great about a free-form shape, too. Voluminous garments are both comfortable and versatile — two ideas driving our buying decisions right now.” — Dan Ahwa.

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ANDREA POMPILIO LOOK 29

“I wish I looked this cool leaning on a photocopier. Again with the good trousers (there’s a theme here for me in case you haven’t noticed), this time with a glossy black leather jacket. The whole collection is good, with an abundance of suiting, weird knits and charming proportions.” — Emma Gleason.

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ETRO LOOK 14

“This shouldn’t work, but it does. Very good trousers in the perfect shade of brown, the paisley of the blazer (lush!) and the searingly bright pink jumper.” — Emma.

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ZANINI LOOK 24

“Monochrome that isn’t minimal. I love the cream trousers paired with black everything else, and contrasting buttons. This collection is beautiful — elegant, tailored, and with just enough sobriety without feeling cold or austere.” — Emma.

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GABRIELE COLANGELO LOOK 17

“Not exactly autumnal, nevertheless I love this look for very-late 90s glamour — the dress, the trousers, the heels, it all feels a little bit of Stella-era Chloe with a dash of Madison Avenue’s ‘Don’t Call Me Baby’. This has given me even more motivation to track down a good pair of suit pants. I also appreciate the scraped back hair.” — Emma.

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SUNNEI LOOK 23

“This just really is a mood.” — Emma.

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