19 Illuminating Looks From Paris Fashion Week That Moved Us The Most

The city of lights wraps up a pared-back fashion week circuit filled with new ideas and a fresh sense of 'chic' in the age of a pandemic

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DRIES VAN NOTEN LOOK 17

”I’ve been scouring eBay and Vestiaire for vintage Dries Van Noten skirts in a funky print for summer, and this look from the new collection captures that eccentric, relaxed energy quite well. The whole lookbook is a visual feast — dynamic, hyper-saturated and joyful.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

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LOEWE LOOK 14

"While some designers were reviving Y2K shapes and trippy ideas from the 60s, JW Anderson was looking for a new proposition, clothes that haven’t been seen before, a challenge he took on with plenty of success in a collection that truly felt shiny and new. An explosion of metallic forms emerged out of dresses, evoking the mood some of us are feeling right now — a sense of deliriousness, feeling unhinged and craving for something new. I think he nailed it.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

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CHANEL LOOK 25

"Chanel’s show was the boost of optimism we all needed right now. The parading catwalk of 90s-inspired swimsuits and bike shorts were a fresh take for the brand. The chilled nature of this dress caught my eye. I want to wear it to a picnic now!” — Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

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GIVENCHY LOOK 24

“This purple ensemble from Givenchy’s collection may comprise a lot of moving parts, but there is something to be said for a look that can bring together a skin-tight turtleneck, stomping clogs and tutu-like peplum and have them make sense.” — Julia Gessler, production and digital journalist

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THEBE MAGUGU LOOK 4

"Joining this clever South African designer for his presentation was his mother Iris and aunty Esther — both inspirations for this collection that drew on family and genealogy. The most moving look among many was this lavender ensemble inspired by a photo of Iris. A trench coat, a pleated skirt, a shirt and a matching headpiece gave new meaning to the idea of layering. Imbued with memories, these are garments that help encourage the other thing that clothes should be doing — passed down through generations to enjoy and cherish.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

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MARINE SERRE LOOK 32

“French designer Marine Serre wasn’t the only one to explore sentimentality and family history this season (Thebe Magugu did so too) and her collection was an ode to textiles — the ones that stick around, serve a purpose, and contain meaning. This look reminds me of the kitchen, a comforting space for me.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

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MIU MIU LOOK 45

“Miuccia referenced so many special moments from her past collections for Miu Miu SS22, so nostalgic but so fresh. This embellished two-piece is a real winner. ” — Chloe Hill, contributing fashion editor

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CHLOE LOOK 19

"Creative director Gabriela Hearst is fashioning a new interpretation of the Chloe woman, and just when you think you’ve seen it all — from Stella McCartney’s playful stint between 1997-2001 to Hearst’s predecessor, the artful Natacha Ramsay-Levi — this time around its romantic in an organic way. More emphasis on artisanal pieces, less looks down the runway, and eco-friendly accessories, this kaftan look with shell necklace and espadrilles might not be entirely ‘new’ but it made me stop and admire.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

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HERMES LOOK 3

“A stunning, satisfying display of proportions. Hermes, as always, has the hearts of summer’s sophisticates.” — Julia Gessler, production and digital journalist

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COPERNI LOOk 17

“Shirt, louche trousers and a pair of jandals — this is all I need for summer, and look 17 from the French label is a convincing template to work from.” — Dan Ahwa, fashion and creative director

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CHANEL LOOK 55

“Virginie Viard steered Chanel in a more camp and cheerful direction this season, seeking the optimism and theatrics of the early 90s. It’s appealing territory, and one I wish she’d explore more often. This look I like. There are touches of Lucille Bluth and Hilary Banks, and I'd quite enjoy wearing it for an alfresco lunch or a poolside martini.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

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AZ FACTORY x JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LOOK 22

”When you think of joyful, charming fashion designers you remember Alber Elbaz. The fact that 45 designers banded together to pay tribute to the designer who died in April from Covid complications, creating a look each inspired by Alber, is testament to his legacy. Teaming up with Alber’s design team AZ Factory, Gaultier added his own sense of whimsy to this playful look of exploding hearts, perfectly worn by Anna Cleveland.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

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ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD LOOK 7

"I don't quite know what's going on here, but I love it. It kind of gives off lost-luggage-and-had-to-scrounge-together-anything-I-could-from-the-local-op-shop vibes. Extra points for the very sun safe hat.” — Chloe Hill, contributing fashion editor

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MIU MIU LOOK 1

"I don’t know whether I actually love these low-rise chinos, or if I’m attracted to this look because I went through puberty in the early 2000s, but regardless (after all, our taste is shaped by experience) I quite like the idea of low-slung slacks for summer, with a simple situation up top.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER LOOK 2

”There’s nothing new about a sexy pinstripe suit, but this one has the attitude and the power one needs to harness it in order to deal with days like these.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

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KENNETH IZE LOOK 5

"Stripes! Colour! Just lovely. One of the most exciting designers right now, Kenneth Ize presents a different vision for fashion and luxury, melding tradition with fresh thinking in a truly authentic way. Fabrics have become one of his signatures, and 80 per cent are handwoven in Nigeria, where he has established a factory. Colour combinations are another thing he does so well, like in this mood-elevating look." — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

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CHANEL LOOK 63

“Forget boho dresses for your summer holidays, it's going to be all about sashaying around in floaty tops and cargo pants.” — Chloe Hill, contributing fashion editor

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LANVIN LOOK 7

"The perfect 'power walking to get your morning coffee' look. Confusing enough to have people questioning whether you just came from yoga or if you're just highly dedicated to activewear.” — Chloe Hill, contributing fashion editor

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MIU MIU LOOK 46

“Miuccia Prada’s back-to-work vision was all skin: shorter-than-thou shirts and low-rise pants barely hanging on to hips. With clothes like this faded knit co-ord, the corporate crop may come sooner than we think.” — Julia Gessler, production and digital journalist

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