Viva Highlights: Our Favourite Looks From Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2021

Cast in houndstooth and macrame, these clothes were made for a multitude of worlds


1/15

COURREGES LOOK 23

“A new designer at a storied brand like Courreges is always going to be a tall order. The brand’s 60s space-age legacy has been referenced not only by the brand’s creative director predecessors, but by other brands over the years, from Louis Vuitton to Jacquemus. Clean-cut and minimalist, the debut from Nicola Di Felice also taps into 90s minimalism and all the great parts of it — sharp thigh-skimming lengths that defined the 60s and 90s, jackets with neat shoulders and square necklines that have a crisp, clean-cut effect on the eye. This 60s meets 90s trouser suit is a great look — styled with a cap, giving it a more confident attitude. For the busy customer desiring fuss-free clothes that move with the times, this was a compelling first collection from Di Felice. I'm looking forward to seeing more.” — Dan.

Photo / Supplied

CHRISTIAN DIOR LOOK 3

“I love the clear structure of this dress-and-shirt combo — the sharp lines of the black pinafore complemented with a crisp collar and cuffs. For a collection inspired by fairy tales and princess pomp, Maria Grazia Chiuri made fantasy dressing wearable; reality was palpable too.” — Julia.

Photo / Supplied

KENNETH IZE LOOK 6

“I would wear this entire outfit from the Paris-based Nigerian designer, whose passion for his heritage is conveyed through his designs and choice of textiles. These are deeply personal clothes — a breath of fresh air amidst brands and collections still being created by marketing teams.” — Dan.

Photo / Supplied

NINA RICCI LOOK 4

“Twenty-nine concise looks, all strong individually, but this one stood out for its great proportions, and the green houndstooth is surprising and chic. It would be great to see more designers show less looks moving forward — to me that in itself is a strong message for sustainably dressing too. Being concise and having a few considered items to cherish forever is the key takeaway I’m getting from this collection of outfits.” — Dan.

Photo / Supplied

RICK OWENS LOOK 48

“Rick is one of those designers who has always stayed true to his point of view and this sculptural gown, with its asymmetrical neckline and single sleeve, closed the show in typically dramatic fashion with a single black glove and matching face mask. It’s a gown for the times, and if there was an actress or Hollywood stylist willing to take more risks during awards season, a gown from Rick would be an inspired choice.” — Dan Ahwa.

Photo / Supplied

VERSACE LOOK 12

“It’s sweater vest season, and Versace offered a dazzler: print-on-print-on-print, with matching pants. There hasn't been a time where I’ve liked head-to-toe monograms, until now.” — Julia.

Photo / Supplied

LANVIN LOOK 8

“Bruno Sialelli served a glamorous fever dream on a gilded platter, Paris’ Shangri-La Hotel. The crystals, billowing hems and heart neckline of this look is a sum of this collection’s particular worldbuilding. Here, there’s no crisis, only Rococo decor and splendour.” — Julia.

Photo / Supplied

ALTUZZARA LOOK 13

“While there were other, more daytime, more slinky silhouettes in Joseph Altuzarra’s collection of high-fashion comfortwear, this suit, with a cinched-in waist and free-flowing form, was a perfect act of remaking.” — Julia Gessler.

Photo / Supplied

DRIES VAN NOTEN LOOK 63

“This look is pure fabulosity. Dries is the master of tempering dramatic romance with a natural ease. Combining pink satin with red organza, in any other hands this would not work. My dream self would wear this to swan around with a coupe of bubbles.” — Emma.

Photo / Supplied

LOEWE LOOK 25

“Brown and yellow is my current colour obsession, perfectly executed here by Jonathan Anderson and his Loewe team. Texturally, the combination of brown suede and yellow leather is delicious, and so are those loafers.” — Emma Gleason.

Photo / Supplied

MIU MIU LOOK 5

“The epitome of comfort(ing) dressing, there’s an unexpected glamour to this pearlescent quilted-silk two-piece and furry accessories, and I could stroke that bag all day long. I’m very much a fan of knitted bonnets — as is Miuccia Prada, clearly — and love this green number.” — Emma.

Photo / Supplied

ELIE SAAB LOOK 4

“Elie Saab’s resilience in the face of adversity — a global pandemic, which stifled haute couture, coupled with the August Bierut explosion, which decimated both his atelier and his home — amounts to something incredible. It is not surprising that his clothes, which came down the runway in waves of black and white and green, looked visibly different, for all their monochrome: between the tulle and macrame were fun, fit-for-everyday polka dots, culottes and thigh-high leather boots. And yet, in these looks, like this one, there was still a clear sense of the Lebanese designer’s severe elegance and unapologetic opulence — an uplifting new direction that hasn’t forgotten, or compromised, Saab’s glamorous code .” — Julia.

Photo / Supplied

ISSEY MIYAKE LOOK 13

“I love how simple and elegant this jacket and trouser combination is, and the iconic Japanese designer gives us all a lesson on dressing with a sense of purpose and quiet confidence. The length of the jacket is just right, and a pair of languid trousers makes this appealing for days like these. Restrained, calm and collected, this is a look to be inspired by when you need a reset in every sense of the word.” — Dan.

Photo / Supplied

ISSEY MIYAKE LOOK 3

“Issey collections always stick to their house codes, while still proving fresh and a delightfully weird — after all, sculptural pleated polyester isn’t for the faint hearted. I love dresses over paints, as seen here, and the hat has an 80s feel that reminds me of the brand’s earlier years.” — Emma.

Photo / Supplied

KENNETH IZE LOOK 11

“One of the most exciting new designers now, Kenneth exemplifies how craft and luxury can be combined in an authentic way. The LVMH prize-winner reinterprets the colours, textiles and aesthetic traditions of Nigeria while working closely with artisans and weavers in the country. The colours and textures of this coat are magnificent — enhanced by the flap pocket placement and fabric covered buttons. I also love that it’s paired with cream and brown garments. The whole collection is exceptional, as always, and I recommend familiarising yourself with Kenneth’s work if you haven’t already.” — Emma.

Photo / Supplied


Share this article:
New Zealand Herald

New Zealand Herald

Subscribe to E-Newsletter